One day, almost at the end of summer, we went to meet Rui Reguinga, one of Portugal's most renowned and recognised winemakers, and had the opportunity to take part in one of his harvests in the old vineyards, some of which are centuries old, in the S. Mamede region. We got down to work and learnt some of the secrets that give rise to wines of excellence from the Alto Alentejo region, one of the many places where he has his own production. In a pleasant and friendly chat, we learned a little more about this famous winemaker and internationally recognised viticulturist. In addition to the vineyards, we also had the opportunity to visit his winery located in Olhos de Água, near the Roman city of Ammaia, where we tasted some of his wines from the region, an experience we recommend at Despensa Franciscana.
DFRui, how did your relationship with wine begin and what led you to study to be an oenologist and develop your own business?
RR: From a very young age I would go to my grandfather's mill to tread the grapes. At the time, I didn't realise that my profession would be working with wine, it was child's play to me.
This influence was important in my decision to study at ISA (Instituto Superior de Agronomia in Lisbon).
But I love what I do and I'm happy to have chosen the profession of winemaker.
DF: Have there been many changes in wine production in recent years, both in Portugal and internationally?
RRYes, the evolution of technology in our wineries and our knowledge of the vineyards has helped us to produce wines that are more appreciated by consumers.
DF: Analysing your life path and knowing all the places in the world where you have consulted, from Australia, New Zealand, the United States, Brazil, Chile to Sri Lanka, among others, how would you classify the Portuguese "terroir" and the characteristics of our climate compared to those realities?
RR: Portugal has one of the best terroirs (climate, soils and grape varieties) for producing high-quality wines. From my international experience, Portugal's great diversity of grape varieties is the best feature of our wines. The international market is very receptive to wines with original and unique grape varieties.
DF: We know that you have your own wine brand, which is recognised by lovers of fine wines. We also know that you have vineyards in regions other than the Alto Alentejo, so we'd like to know in which other areas of our country you produce and what wines you produce there?
RR: My professional activity is divided into winemaker-consultant, where I sell my knowledge and experience to producers who want to make their own wine, but who need a winemaker-consultant to give them experience and an international outlook. On the other hand, I work as a winemaker-producer, where I have my own vineyards. For this activity I have created a technical team to help me in the various regions where I make wines and have different brands:
_ Terrassus in the Douro region
_ Tribute in the Tagus region
_ Terrenus in the Alto Alentejo region
DFHow do you define your wines?
RRTerroir wines and signature wines.
DFAre there any grape varieties in particular that you enjoy working with the most?
RRI really like working with the Touriga Nacional grape variety as a national grape variety and the Syrah grape variety as an international grape variety.
DF: As a winegrower and winemaker, you will certainly often have to make important and even difficult decisions. We would like you to tell us, throughout the entire wine production process, which moment, or phase of production, is the most difficult for you to make decisions?
RRThe hardest part is picking the grapes, i.e. setting the day for the harvest.
DFAt a time when there is so much talk about the principles of sustainability and protecting ecosystems, what measures have you implemented throughout the various stages of your work to address this issue?
RRI'm converting one of my largest vineyard plots (3ha) to organic vines and, if it goes well, in the next few years I'll have all the vines cultivated organically, safeguarding their sustainability.
DFHow do you feel you can help other winemakers or wineries?
RRI'm always happy to share my wines and my experiences with other winemakers and producers.
DF: What is your main source of inspiration for developing your work?
RR: My father.
DF: Since we are in Alto Alentejo, and in one of your vineyards in this region, we would like you to suggest pairing your wines with a typical dish from our area.
RR: Terrenus White with dogfish soup and Terrenus Reserva Red with stewed wild boar.
DFIs there already a younger generation showing interest in vineyard activities and the future of wine?
RR: Yes, we have several young people with a great passion for our country's wines.
DFWhat can we expect in the future from a winemaker with Rui's vast experience here in our Alto Alentejo region?
RR: I hope to project and valorise Portalegre's wines, making them internationally recognised in particular.
